Red Primer Modulation Set. German vehicles in factories or prototypes used for tests are some of the most popular themes for many modelers. These vehicles were painted in a reddish brown color that would vary depending on the factory; it served as a primer and in some cases, towards the end of the war, was also included into the camouflage. This set includes six bottles to paint vehicles in a red primer using the color modulation style, with six colors to get the most subtle transition of shadows and highlights with variations in tones to be able to apply the modulation quickly and precisely.

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Lancaster B. II Paolo Portuesi builds the new Airfix kit with ground support accessories. We are now on Facebook, Like us to follow what we are doing and follow our build projects. AIR Modeller welcomes contributions from interested parties, but cannot accept any responsibility for unsolicited material. The contents of this publication including all articles, drawings and photographs originated by AFV Modeller ltd become the publishers copyright under copyright law.

Reproduction in any form requires the written consent of the publisher. Whilst every care is taken to avoid mistakes AFV. Gunze colours were used for the regulation late war camouflage scheme followed by the winter white overspray and the decals were applied. Masking tape is used as a guide to hand paint the rivet pattern over the whole aircraft.

This was the sprayed onto a simple flat wooden base that I constructed to fit the model. I made a mould from a tray the same size as the top of the base and then poured a layer of De Luxe Materials Solid Water clear resin which was tinted to give an opaque appearance.

When this had dried and hardened the sheet was removed an broken up with a hammer to give an effect like cracked ice. Here the aircraft is test fitted on the base and the pieces of resin ice are laid out around it to test the composition and fit of the pieces. White enamel was used to paint the trees and replicate the colours of the silver birch.

Painting is underway on the rocks and green stains are added to those close to the waterline. A thick coat of white glue was applied over the land and then a thick coat of Andrea artificial snow was applied over this to create the fallen snow. Gloss varnish was painted onto the ice in selected areas and the artificial snow sprinkled into it to make the patches of snow on the ice.

The scraped areas where the fighter has slid over the ice were done in the same way but the snow was dragged across the ice before it had completely set. Vallejo Transparent Water Effects gel was stippled over the ice in the areas where the water had spilled onto the ice using a sponge to texture the gel.

Micro balloons and the artificial snow were mixed with glue to make the slushy snow that had collected along the leading edges of the wings. The Pilot figure is based on a mix of several commercial figures with parts chosen to get the desired pose and the head is from the Ultracast range.

Putty was used to unify the parts and to add the correct uniform for the scenario. Finally the parachute the corresponding straps were added. The two wolves are slightly adapted Andrea models, the only brand who makes them I think. The one running has had a new collar to blend in the separately moulded head and I added some volume to its tail.

Considering I had never attempted snow and Ice before I was pretty pleased with the outcome. I hope that it might inspire others to have a go at something similar. Nature is always a difficult challenge for the modeller but good references are the only real restriction. Now we have more means at our disposal and because brands like "Deluxe Materials" provide a range of snow and water products for the modeller, everything has got a lot easier. From the colour shots I found with some internet searches I didn't find any with the fuselage.

The rudder and all tail and wing control surfaces are separate and can remain moveable after assembly should you wish, all with superb delicate surface detail. The speed brakes can also be posed in the open position with internal detail on show. I chose to leave off the large ventral fuel tank solely because I preferred the sleeker lines without it. Cockpit assembly is very simple and looks quite busy when viewed on the finished model, most modellers will see seatbelts as a must so youll need to make your own or add aftermarket detail parts.

Air-Scale produce suitable facia decals which would be a nice touch. Here Ive added a drop of gloss varnish to each instument. Canopy parts are nicely moulded and an excellent fit. Once masked I first airbrushed the frames black followed by a top coat of Alclad Polished aluminium. Theres a call-out on the instructions for the area at the rear to be painted white, so I did as I was told! A Meteor in is a big model, and in the monotone silver aluminium dope finish would look very bland and unrealistic if finished in a flat coat of paint.

Here Ive refered to photographs to try and emulate the subtle tonal shifts and discolouration of the High Speed Silver. I was assured by the Editor that this was nonsense, so after a quick chat I was armed with some. I like HKs approach in producing a simple build which would appeal to even the most novice modeller, while the quality of the surface detail will impress even the most picky detailers. This was a very enjoyable kit to build and an absolute must to any Meteor fan. HK may well even release further versions in future if the F.

Although I couldnt find a picture of this particular aircraft, I. As previously mentioned, the rivet detail on the airframe is extremely subtle and therefore I didnt want to risk.

With the mask then removed I could quite accurately apply the paint just where it was needed before laying the white portion of the masks in place. With that done, attention could now be focussed on the camouflage. The white underside was tackled first, after a thin base coat, the paint in the airbrush cup was tinted slightly with light grey, and this was then applied along panels and in a random fashion all with the aim of breaking up the uniform colour.

I kept this stage very subtle as most of the weathering would be done using enamels and oils. Now for the intermediate blue and looking at the Gunze colour staring back at me I felt it looked a bit grey and washed out so it was tinted with Tamiya X Gloss Sky Blue. Following the base coat this tone was lightened with white and buff and then strategically applied in thin layers.

It was concentrated along panel lines and in larger areas as well as in a random mottle and larger cloudy areas. I try and use a little bit of logic here and always refer to. As you can see, there is no primer.

The rivets are so fine I didnt want to risk clogging them up. You can also see the plastic card mask for the engine and the painted canopy. The overall aim is not to use products and techniques just because they are fashionable or popular, its to use whatever is appropriate for realism which is why constantly referring to pictures of the real thing is so important.

Before applying the dark blue a layer of Alclad was laid down on the wing roots. Corsairs chipped paint in a particular way in this area and in order to try and replicate this the easiest method I felt was to use the hairspray technique.

Tamiyas decals are pretty thick so I painted the markings using custom Miracle Masks. Here the white has been applied as have the relevant masks. I felt the Intermediate Blue from Gunze was too grey in tone so a bit of bright blue was added.

You can easily see the shading effect, it looks exaggerated but the weathering will tone it down. Once dry the top dark blue could be painted. This time I really liked the tone of the blue so after the base coat was on, the paint was tinted in the same was as the intermediate blue. Note that I didnt blindly lighten the fabric panels, as I couldnt really see evidence of this in the photos. Now for the fun bit; chipping. Taking a soft brush, water was applied to the relevant area and then a soft scrubbing motion used, eventually the paint will lift off and chip as the AK Worn Effects medium dissolves.

It has taken me a few attempts to come up with a way that is successful for me and there is no substitute for practice. Even though this was a field repaint, I masked the demarcation line as I presumed they folded the wings to make life easier.

Following a coat of aluminium and matt varnish, AK Interactive Worn Effects was applied in order to effectively chip the relevant areas. Oils, enamels and pigments With the base coat on its now time to get creative, starting with the underside. A light filter using AK Interactive Grey Wash for Ships heavily diluted warmed the tone and removed the stark white look. A slightly more dense mix was used as a wash in the panel lines but be careful as we dont want to have too much contrast.

MiG Abteilung shadow brown oil paint was painted into the crevices and along panel lines in the centre section behind the engine and then blended with a dry ish brush. Next were the oil stains. When ready, this was streaked back and blended. Having seen a similar effect along the wing folds, the same technique was used here to good effect. The area around the shell ejector chutes seemed to be discoloured quite often so again the ubiquitous Shadow Brown was applied sparingly and then blended.

Yes, I know the shading looks overdone but as with the lighter blue, it will get toned down with the weathering. Highlights were concentrated along panels and rivets; this gives a better effect that then centre of panels. The Miracle Masks were segmented so I found it easier to cut out the big circle from tape. In this view, the realistic finish of spraying the markings becomes apparent.

There is no way those rivets would be preserved using decals. Now for the blue areas. Youve probably noticed the use of the word subtle cropping up all the time; this is an important concept to note. This approach to weathering is designed to slowly build up the effects without too much contrast as each layer adds to the overall effect and compliments each other.

On top of this the oil dot technique was used. Tiny dots of appropriately coloured paint are applied but its not random, darker tones are used in areas of shadow for example and I kept strong colours such as blue away from the markings. I didnt use any yellow as this would affect the blue imparting a green hue, something which would look a bit odd.

These dots are carefully blended into the background and do a very. Now the camouflage is finished, the next step is painting the walkway markings before weathering. Now for a new technique, well to me and aircraft modelling that is.

Those of you who read the sister title AFV Modeller will probably be aware of Adam Wilders Speckling technique; looking at close up period photos I could see something similar so decided to try it here.

Left This looks a right mess however, this is the oil dot technique in action and will be blended next. Note I avoided using blue on the white areas and concentrated dark tones in shadow areas. This was then carefully flicked onto the surface and lightly blended if required.


Heinkel He 60

Red Primer Modulation Set. German vehicles in factories or prototypes used for tests are some of the most popular themes for many modelers. These vehicles were painted in a reddish brown color that would vary depending on the factory; it served as a primer and in some cases, towards the end of the war, was also included into the camouflage. This set includes six bottles to paint vehicles in a red primer using the color modulation style, with six colors to get the most subtle transition of shadows and highlights with variations in tones to be able to apply the modulation quickly and precisely. AK acrylic paints are water soluble and can be applied by brush and airbrush; additionally, AK paints are free of odors commonly found in aggressive solvent based paints.


AFV Modeller 60


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